Tour de China

Friends of our Aussie mate Matt had a conference in Hong Kong and decided to turn that trip into a tour of China.  Following Hong Kong, they caught the 20-hour train to Shanghai from Guangzhou where Laura, Matt, and I joined the tour.

With the Aussie's realizing Shanghai is more of an eating and drinking city than a sightseeing city, a few days were spent here eating, drinking, and catching a game of expat cricket.  That last bit may sound odd, but it is kind of a Shanghai thing to do when you consider the international diversity of the city.

From Shanghai, we were all off on the high-speed train to Beijing to explore the city and The Great Wall, Forbidden City, and Summer Palace.  The Aussies were able to secure accommodation amongst the hutongs (traditional Chinese residences/hotels amongst a maze of narrow alleyways), we booked too late.  The Aussies were also more adventurous in exploring the local cuisine, imbibing in kebabs from the hutong alleyways, scorpion on a skewer, and a sampling of other local "delicacies".  We saved room for what may be the best duck in the world, and the duck skin which is particularly delicious dipped in sugar.

From Beijing, we headed to Xi'an.  The Aussies were able to take the overnight train, unfortunately Laura and I booked too late with a holiday approaching and hopped a plane.  Xi'an is the educational hub of China with 183 universities.  It is also the eastern end of the Silk Road which has led to a large Muslim population reflected in the Great Mosque constructed in 700 AD and the massive Muslim market.  Furthermore, Xi'an has the last remaining city wall in China.  Apparently all, or most, major cities in China had a wall at one point.  Beijing's city wall was removed in 1965 and replaced with the 2nd ring road.  Beijing now has 7 ring roads.  And lastly, Xi'an may be best known today for it's proximity to the Terra Cotta Warriors.

Following Xi'an, the boys had to head back to Australia and Laura back to work.  But Matt and I took a few days to check out Guilin.  Guilin is a "very small" city of 1.4 million people.  It is also along the Li River which is lined by gorgeous limestone rock formations.  We had an experience we won't soon forget in Guilin.  More on each of the sights from our travels to come.

On the fast train from Shanghai to Beijing.  The only way to
go from Shanghai to Beijing.  5 hours and reliable, versus 2
hours in the air between the worst (Beijing) and second
worst (Shanghai) airports in the world for on-time flights.

Our Aussie companions.  We tested the theory that the
train was smooth enough of a ride at 300km/hr for a
marker to remain standing vertical for the 5 hour trip.
Would have worked if not for the banking of the track.

Scorpion on a stick.  I'd probably eat it in a pinch.

Panda.  They seemed almost as lazy as koalas.

Dragon's Back (To Back)

It's been awhile.  We'll start catching up in Hong Kong.

Some time ago, Laura had to be in Hong Kong on a Thursday and Friday for work.  We made last minute plans for me to tag along and stay the weekend.  Typhoon Utor put a bit of a wrinkle in that plan.  Booking late, I had a separate flight out.  Utor had hit Hong Kong the day before and was just clearing the area when we were set to depart.  Though Utor didn't cause much damage to Hong Kong, it did wreak havoc on flight schedules and hotel room bookings.  My flight went, Laura's never did.

Lucky to still have a room, I was in Hong Kong solo.  We had planned on hiking the trails through the mountains around the city.  Figuring Laura had no chance of making it down, I headed off Friday morning for perhaps the most famous, Dragon's Back.  About 10am, as I stood on a peak on the Dragon's Back trail, I received a call from Laura informing me she'd be on a flight arriving that evening.

Saturday morning, Laura and I headed off to hike Dragon's Back.  I didn't mind.  It's a beautiful and scenic trail and we were able to find a more scenic decent than I had found the day before.  If you ever have the opportunity to give it a go, it's a 3 to 3-1/2 hour hike and don't believe the signs.  Big Wave Bay is the end of the trail in theory.  Every sign says "Big Wave Bay 500m".  Turns out that just means 500m until the next sign that says "Big Wave Bay 500m".  And even that's not right.  The first 500m seemed long.  I timed the second 500m, it took longer than it should have.  I stepped off the third 500m.  737m by my calibrated stride.

Heading up to the Dragon's Back

The Dragon's Back.  On the southeast end of Hong Kong Island.

I don't know what this is.

I also do not know what this gelatinous sea cucumber looking
 thing is, nor how it made it's way up to the top of a mountain.

Not everybody you come across on a trail can be trusted
to take a quality photo.  This is the better of two.

The town of Stanley on Hong Kong Island

Tai Tam Harbor and Reservoir

Town of Shek O and Shek O Beach

Big Wave Bay.  Looks to be about 500m.

Descending over 1100 steps into Big Wave Bay.

LT taking a break and admiring the scenery while resting
the legs.  1100 steps will leave them a bit wobbly.

Prison with a view.

Rock carving near Big Wave Bay estimated to be 3,500 years old.

Big Wave Bay shark nets "not working" per the loudspeaker
announcement.  They were freely floating, but no signs of Jaws.

Big Wave Bay Beach

The 3,500 year old rock carving is just to the right of that lifeguard shack.

As the name might suggest, Big Wave Bay is a surf town.

Dragon's Back from the road between Big Wave Bay and Shek O.

Shek O Beach

We had to take a ferry, subway train, then double decker bus
up narrow, winding roads to get to Dragon's Back from our hotel.

Laura braved the front seat of the top deck on the bus heading
 down.  A lot of branches hit that window at high speed.  Neither
of us made it down without ducking a time or two.

Escaping the Jungle for the Forest

Shanghai is a great city, it is also a massive and heavily populated city.  Population based on Shanghai resident permits is approximately 22 million, but we've heard actual population estimates ranging from 28 million to 40 million.  And with little green-space, it is often referred to as the concrete jungle.  It is easy to go months without stepping foot on grass.  Though there are a number of small parks scattered throughout the city, you are not supposed to walk on the grass in most.  In fact, I only know of two parks where you're able to walk on the grass.  One is a 20 minute walk from our place and is completely under construction at the moment, the other is a 40 minute Metro ride across the city.  As someone who enjoys the outdoors and the solitude of a hike through nature, escaping the city is one of the more difficult things about living here for me.

Some time ago, it was with a fair bit of excitement that I had Anthony (our driver) take me an hours drive out to the Sheshan National Forest.  Sheshan is not so much a forest as it is a series of tree-covered hills all within about 20 minutes drive of each other with the occasional historic structure at or near a "peak".  Sheshan also contains the highest point in Shanghai at 97m above sea-level.  Downtown Shanghai averages 3m above sea-level.  Sheshan is where Shanghainese go to "climb a mountain".  I "climbed" the highest, Heaven Horse Mountain, and two others.  It takes about 15 minutes.

It was great to be amongst nature again.  I saw and heard birds that weren't for sale in a cage and I scared off some sort of wildlife along the way.  Didn't catch a glimpse of it, but I'm assuming it was a deer.  I don't think there are many other larger animals around these parts.  Despite the quick ascents, there were enough trails in the two sections of the forest I visited to kill the better part of a day.  Only unfortunate part, as you'll see below, is "the mist" is ever-present across all of Shanghai and far beyond it's boundaries.

West Sheshan Park:

View from the "peak"

I believe the Family Feud question was:
Things you don't expect to see in Shanghai?

The Church of Our Lady of Sheshan.  The biggest
church in Southeast Asia and a Catholic church.

Urinal just outside the church.  Anybody
else wondering why you need an outdoor
urinal with all those trees around?

Astronomical Observatory.  Think it goes without
saying that it's no longer in operation.

Never thought somebody actually looked through
a scope in one of these huge observatories.

Not sure what this is.  Seems like the top deck
was a sundial that time has deteriorated.

Bamboo forest

These were everywhere throughout the bamboo forest.
Didn't think a bamboo forest would be so susceptible
to fire, but I'm not going to knock one of the few
 safety precautions I've come across while here.

Just a bathroom

Tianmashan Park:

Entrance gate

Balance is an important concept to the Chinese

Uhhhhh ... okay?!?

Huzhu Pagoda.  Over 900 years old and tilted at
 an angle greater than the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

This may show the angle better/

Buddhist temple at one peak.

Not a good PMI day.

At the peak of Heaven Horse Mountain, 97m above
sea level.  I'll save you the close up of the horse.
It's made in an attempt to look real, but is missing
key facial components that gives you the creeps.

This is just a bathroom in the forest, but it's funny
because of the doors.  The Chinese seem to have
an aversion to removing the protective plastic that
 adorns aesthetically important, but transportationally
fragile items.  This drives some people crazy.  These
doors on perhaps the most remote bathroom in
Shanghai still have the protective plastic on them.

Pretty certain this is not the longest word, but at 23 letters,
it is the longest word I have ever seen actually used
without being prefaced by "the longest word is ...".